Arrow Plate: An inlay just above the handle on the side of the bow where the arrow passes as it leaves the bow.
Ascharm' A cabinet in which Bows, arrows, and archery tackle are stored.
Back: The surface of the bow farthest from the archer when the bow is held in the shooting position.
Backing: Various materials including: fibre glass, cellulose products, raw hide, etc. glued to the back of the bow to improve its cast.
Backed Boiv: A bow to which a backing has been glued.
Barb: A projection on a hunting head which prevents its easy withdrawal.
Barreled Arrow: An arrow whose shaft is tapered from the middle toward each end and having its greatest cross-sectional area in the middle of the shaft.
Boss or Bast: The twisted and coiled straw back of a target to which the face is attached.
Bow Stave: A billet of wood from which a bow is to be manufactured.
Bowyer: A maker of bows.
Brace: To string the bow.
Belly: The belly of the bow is the side that you see when you hold the bow in shooting position.
Bend: The act of bracing or placing the string in the bow nocks.
Bobtailed Arrow: An arrow that has its greatest cross section at the pyle and tapers toward the nock.
Bodkin: A three bladed broadhead arrow.
Broadhead: A flat triangular shaped hunting head made of steel.
Butt: A backstop to which faces are attached, such as bales of straw.
Carriage Bow: A bow that has its two limbs joined under the handle in a ferrule. It can be disjointed to permit easy transportation. (Takedown).
Cast: The inherent ability of a bow to propel an arrow.
Chested Arrow: An arrow that has its greatest cross-section toward the nock and tapers from this point toward both the nock and pyle.
Chrysal: A compression failure i.e., a fracture of the fibres usually appearing as a line across the belly of the bow.
Clout Target: The standard four foot target enlarged twelve times and laid out in a horizontal position on the ground.
Cock Feather: The feather on the arrow which is at right angles to the nock. Usually the odd colored feather.
Crest: Colored bands of varying width and spacing, painted on the arrow for identification purposes.
Crossbow: A short bow set crosswise on a stock, drawn by mechanical means, and discharging a dart by trigger release.
Cross Wind: A wind blowing across the target.
Curl: A swirl in the grain of a bow stave.
Down Wind: A wind blowing toward the target.
Draw: The act of pulling the bow string the full length of the arrow.
Drawing Fingers: The first three fingers of the hand used in pulling the string.
Drawing Weight: The force in pounds required to bring a bow to full draw.
Drift: The sidewise movement of the arrow as it travels toward the target due to a cross wind.
End: A unit number of arrows used in scoring. In target com¬petition six arrows constitute an end.
Eye-' The loop or loops in a bow string.
Field Captain: The official in charge of a tournament.
Finger Tips: Leather finger stalls used to protect the tips of the three shooting fingers.
Fistmele: The distance from the base of the clenched hand to the tip of the extended thumb. Used as a measure slot depo 10k of the proper distance from the handle to the string when a flat
bow is braced or strung.
Fletch: Placing the feathers on an arrow.
Fletcher: A manufacturer of arrows. Arrow maker.
Fletching: The feathers which guide the arrow in flight.
Flight Arrow: A long, light arrow with very small fletching or vanes. Used in distance shooting.
Flirt: A jerky or jumping movement of an arrow from its theoretical flight line.
Follow the String: A bow that has taken a permanent set in the drawing direction.
Floo Floo: An arrow used in wing shooting. It is generally fletched with a complete spiral. The size of the fletching is such that the flight distance is short.
Footing: A hardwood splice at the pyle end of a wooden shafted arrow.
Gold: The bulls-eye in the regulation four foot circular target. A circle nine and three-fifths inches in diameter.
Grip: The part of the bow held in the shooting hand.
Hen Feathers: The two feathers, generally of the same color,which are not at a right angle to the arrow nock.
High Braced: When the fistmele distance exceeds seven inches.It is better to high brace a bow than to low brace one.
Hold: The pause at full draw position prior to release of the arrow.
Home: When the arrow is fully drawn with the pyle even with the back of the bow it is said to be "home".
Horns: Tips of the bow made from animal horn in which the bow string nock is cut.
Jointed Bows: Same as a carriage bow.
Kick: A jar which is felt when a bow is shot. Generally due to unevenly tillered bow limbs.
Lady Paramount: A lady assistant to the field captain. In charge of the women's shooting line or division in a tournament.
Laminated Bow: A bow that is built up in layers. It may consist of different kinds of wood, wood and metal, wood and
fibre glass, etc.
Limb: Half of the bow. From the handle or grip to the tip.Upper and lower limbs.
Loose: The act of shooting. Letting the drawn bow string slip
from the shooting fingers.
National Archery Association. (NAA): National Association of Target Archers.
National Field Archery Association. (NFAA): National Asso¬ciation of Field Archers.
Nocks: The grooves at the tips of the limbs of a bow into which the bow string is fitted, also the slot at the feathered end of an arrow.
Nocking Point: The point on the bow string where the arrow nock rests.
Overbowed: A bow with a drawing weight in excess of that which the archer can shoot properly.
Overdraw: To draw the bow beyond the arrow length for which the bow is designed.
Overstrung: When the fistmele is exceeded by the use of too short a bow string.
Pair: Two arrows and a spare, also three feathers.
Pennant: A small flag with the fly longer than the hoist. Placed at the line of targets on a staff to indicate the direction and velocity of the wind at the targets.
Petticoat: The border outside of the last or white ring of the target.It has no scoring value.
Pyle: The metal tip attached to the head of the arrow shaft,the point of the arrow. Anglo-Saxon (pil) meaning dart,also spelled pile.
Pin: A very small knot in bow woods, especially yew or osage.
Pinch: To crush the fibres of the bow by compression. See Chrysal.
Pinch: To squeeze the arrow between the drawing fingers.
Pin Hole: The center of the gold of the target, i.e., dead center.
Point Blank: The act of aiming directly at the target.
Point of Aim: An object at which an archer aims by sighting over the tip of the arrow.
Quiver: A container for arrows. Shape, size and materials vary.They may be carried at the waist, over the shoulder, on the bow, or on the bow arm.
Quiver, Ground: In the simplest form, a metal rod approximately 18 inches long, pointed at one end and a loop formed at right angles to the stem at the other end. Inserted
in the ground, arrows may be dropped through the loop and withdrawn one at a time.
Range: The terrain used in archery competitions. Also called a Field Course.
Recurved Bow: A bow that is bent back from a straight line at the ends of the limbs.
Reflexed Bow: Unstrung and held in a shooting position, the limbs of the bow curve away from the archer.
Release: Same as Loose.
Round: A fixed number of shots at a given distance or set of distances.
Rover: An archer who engages in field shooting. See Roving.
Roving: Shooting over fields and woodlands at natural targets.
Run: When a single one of the strands which make up a bow string frays, stretches, or breaks, the string is said to have a run.
Sap Wood: The wood immediately underneath the bark.
Self: Used in reference to a bow or an arrow made from a single piece of wood, i.e., self bow, self arrow.
Serving: The winding or wrapping around the bow string at the nocking points to protect the bow string from wear.
Shaft: The body or main section of the arrow. The term "feathered shaft" is frequently used in print to designate an arrow.
Shaftment: That section of the shaft to which the feathers are attached.
Shake: A longitudinal crack in a bow stave.
Shooting Glove: A three fingered glove used to protect the shooting fingers.
Shooting Tab: A flat piece of leather designed to be worn on the shooting fingers for protection.
Spiral: The curved position in which the feathers are attached to the arrow shaft.
Spine: The quality of resiliency in an arrow which permits it to bend as it passes the bow in flight and then recover its original shape.
Stacked Bow-' A bow with an oval cross section. One in which the thickness of the limbs is little greater than the width.
Steele: Same as shaft.
Tab: See shooting tab.
Tackle: The equipment of an archer: bow, arrows, quiver, tabs,strings, etc.
Takedown: See Carriage Bow.
Tiller: Shaping the bow to proper curvature. To tiller a bow.
Toxophilite: One fond of, or devoted to, archery. Derived from the Greek toxen meaning bow and philos meaning loving.
Turn: A term used to describe a bow that has a twist to right
or left of the string. Underboived: A bow having too little drawing weight for the
archer.
Unit: Fourteen targets of a field roving course.
Upshot: The last shot in an archery contest.
Vane: The web or flat expanded part of a feather. The flat extended plastic surfaces attached to a shaft to serve as fletching.
Wand: A wooden stick two inches wide, standing upright in the ground. Six feet in height. Used as a mark at which to shoot.
Weight: The weight in grains of an arrow. See also Drawing Weight.
Whip Ended: A bow which has limbs that are too weak at the tips.
Whipping: See Serving.
File cabinets are typically used in office settings. They are used for storage of important and/or confidential files and documents. Aside from files and documents, filing cabinets are also generally used to store office supplies such as bond paper, pens, pencils, envelopes, folders, masking tape, staplers, staple wires, fasteners, and bunch of other stuff. As for personal use, filing cabinets usually hold expensive items, treasured collections, items that carry sentimental value, and of course important documents as well.
Filing cabinets usually come kitted out with a lock to prevent unauthorized people from accessing the items stored inside. But if you somehow lost the key to your filing cabinet, chaos can ensue, particularly in an office setting where important documents and supplies are always needed. In such cases, it is important to keep a clear head and be armed with a bit of handy know-how. Learn how to drill out the cabinet's lock using the right tools. Here's how to do it:
First gather all your tools. You will need a steel drill bit set, a drill, a bit of machine oil, and a flat-head screw driver. All of these items can be purchased at your local hardware store. You can also order them online via a trusted hardware and construction supply site.
Start by putting in the right sized steel drill bit into the chuck of your electrical drill. Choose a steel drill bit that could enter the longest part of the keyhole to ensure that it will break the lock tumblers apart. Make sure the drill bit is securely attached to the electric drill by using the chuck key to tighten it.
Pour a few drops of machine oil and smear it onto the drill bit to lessen the heat that is caused by the friction created by drilling the metal lock construction.
Start drilling the filing cabinet's lock at a medium speed. Make sure you a have a firm grip on the electric drill and apply a steady pressure to it. Once you have fully bored into the metal lock construction, set your electric drill to reverse and pull it out carefully from the filing cabinet lock.
Next, get your flat-head screw driver and insert it into the slot of the metal lock construction. Turn the screwdriver clockwise. If you are successful in breaking the file cabinet lock apart, the release lever should trip and give out. If not, repeat the procedure from start to finish, progressing to the next biggest drill bit size if necessary. Once you are able to destroy the cabinet's lock internally and cause the release lever to yield, you will finally have access to your files and/or office supplies.
All you need to do now is replace the filing cabinet's lock. Change the lock as soon as possible to protect its contents. Filing cabinet locks are easy enough to find. You can purchase them at most hardware stores. When buying a new lock, bring the old, broken lock so you can compare sizes.